Learn.
Build.
Repeat.
____
Do you have something specific you'd like to learn about? Perhaps you're curious about a particular product and its various applications, or maybe you're looking for DIY tips and tricks. We'd love to hear from you! Share with us any project or topic you wish you had more knowledge about, and our home improvement store blog page will create dedicated content to bring your ideas to life. Your input matters to us, and we're here to make your learning dreams come true. Send us a message, and let's embark on a journey of discovery together!

There's something deeply satisfying about marking your territory – and we're not talking about your dog's favorite fire hydrant. We're talking about building a beautiful, sturdy privacy fence that defines your space, keeps prying eyes out, and adds serious curb appeal to your home. And the best part? You can absolutely build it yourself.
Why Dog Ear Fencing is the Perfect DIY Project
The dog ear fence isn't just a clever name – those distinctive angled cuts at the top of each picket aren't just for looks. They're practical design elements that help water run off instead of pooling on flat surfaces, which means your fence will last longer and look better year after year.
But beyond the practical benefits, there's something undeniably appealing about the clean lines and classic American look of a well-built dog ear fence. It says "established neighborhood" and "property pride" without shouting it from the rooftops. Plus, it's one of the most straightforward fence styles to build, making it perfect for first-time fence builders.
The Sweet Spot of Home Improvement
Building your own fence hits that perfect sweet spot of home improvement projects – it's challenging enough to feel like a real accomplishment, but not so complex that you need years of carpentry experience. Most DIYers find fence building surprisingly methodical and satisfying. It's basically adult Legos, but with power tools and the reward of increased property value.
A professionally installed privacy fence can cost $20-40 per linear foot. Build it yourself, and you're looking at $8-15 per foot in materials. For a typical backyard fence (150 linear feet), that's potentially $2,000-4,000 in savings. That's not just pocket change – that's vacation money, kitchen upgrade money, or "start the next project" money.
More Than Just Property Lines
Sure, privacy is probably your main motivation, but a good fence delivers so much more. It creates defined outdoor spaces, provides a backdrop for landscaping, keeps kids and pets safe, reduces noise from busy streets, and can even help with wind control in exposed yards.
And let's be honest – there's something primal about building your own boundary. Every post you set, every rail you attach, every picket you hang is you literally staking your claim and creating something that will outlast you. Your fence will be standing strong long after you've moved on, providing privacy and property definition for the next family.
Ready to Take the Leap?
The beauty of fence building is that it's forgiving. Small imperfections blend into the overall look, and most "mistakes" can be easily corrected. The skills you'll learn – measuring, cutting, drilling, and basic carpentry – will serve you well in countless future projects.
You don't need to be a master carpenter to build a fence that looks professionally installed. You just need patience, attention to detail, and the willingness to follow a proven process step by step. Most DIY fence builders are amazed at how professional their finished product looks, especially when they step back and see that long, straight line of perfectly aligned pickets.
The hardest part isn't the building – it's making the decision to start. Your backyard is waiting for that defining touch that turns it from "yard" into "outdoor living space." Every neighborhood has that one house with the gorgeous fence that makes everyone else's property look a little unfinished by comparison.
Ready to be that house? Check out our complete step-by-step guide below that walks you through every detail of building a dog ear privacy fence, from marking property lines to applying the final finish. Your property lines are about to become property statements.
Complete DIY Guide: Building a Dog Ear Privacy Fence
Planning and Preparation Phase
Step 1: Check Property Lines and Local Codes
- Survey your property lines or hire a surveyor to mark exact boundaries
- Contact local building department to check fence height restrictions and setback requirements
- Verify if permits are required (usually not needed for fences under 6 feet)
- Check for any HOA restrictions or neighborhood covenants
- Confirm which side of the fence should face your neighbor (typically the "good side" faces out)
Step 2: Contact Utility Marking Service
- Call 811 (Dig Safe) to mark underground utilities
- Wait 2-3 business days before digging
- Mark utility locations with spray paint or flags
- Take photos of marked utilities for reference
Step 3: Plan Your Fence Layout
- Measure the total linear footage needed
- Mark fence line with stakes and string
- Identify any slopes, obstacles, or corners
- Plan gate locations if needed
- Account for property line setbacks (typically 2-6 inches from actual property line)
Step 4: Calculate Materials Needed
For every 8-foot section, you'll need:
- 1 pressure-treated fence post (4x4x8 feet)
- 2 pressure-treated horizontal rails (2x4x8 feet)
- 11-13 fence pickets (1x6x6 feet, depending on spacing)
- Concrete mix (1-2 bags per post)
- Galvanized deck screws (2½ inches for rails, 1â…ť inches for pickets)
- Post caps (optional but recommended)
Step 5: Gather Tools and Equipment
- Post hole digger or shovel
- Level (4-foot recommended)
- Drill/driver
- Circular saw or miter saw
- Measuring tape
- String line and stakes
- Wheelbarrow for mixing concrete
- Safety glasses and gloves
Setting Posts
Step 6: Mark Post Locations
- Start at one corner or end of fence line
- Mark post locations every 8 feet along the string line
- Use spray paint to mark exact spots on the ground
- Double-check measurements to ensure equal spacing
Step 7: Dig Post Holes
- Dig holes 24-30 inches deep (one-third the height of fence plus 6 inches)
- Make holes 8-10 inches wide
- Dig holes slightly wider at the bottom for stability
- Remove all loose soil and debris
- Add 4-6 inches of gravel to each hole for drainage
Step 8: Set Corner and End Posts First
- Place corner and end posts in holes
- Use a level to ensure posts are perfectly plumb (vertical)
- Mix concrete according to package directions
- Pour concrete around posts, leaving 2-3 inches below ground level
- Slope concrete away from post to shed water
- Allow corner posts to set for 24 hours before proceeding
Step 9: Set Line Posts
- Run a string line between set corner posts at the desired fence height
- Set remaining posts one at a time
- Use the string line to maintain consistent height
- Check each post for plumb with a level
- Set posts in concrete using same method as corner posts
- Allow all posts to cure for 24-48 hours
Step 10: Trim Posts to Final Height
- Mark all posts at the same height using a string line or water level
- Cut posts with a circular saw for a clean, level top
- Install post caps to protect wood from moisture (optional but recommended)
Installing Rails and Framework
Step 11: Mark Rail Positions
- Measure and mark the location for top rail (typically 6-8 inches from top of post)
- Mark bottom rail location (typically 8-10 inches from ground)
- Use a level to ensure marks are consistent across all posts
- Mark both sides of each post where rails will attach
Step 12: Cut and Install Top Rails
- Measure distance between posts for each section
- Cut 2x4 pressure-treated lumber to fit between posts
- Position top rail between posts at marked locations
- Attach rails to posts using 2½-inch galvanized deck screws
- Drive screws at slight downward angle to prevent splitting
- Use two screws per connection point
Step 13: Install Bottom Rails
- Follow same process as top rails
- Ensure bottom rail is level and consistent height from ground
- Check that rail doesn't touch the ground (leave 2-3 inch gap for drainage)
- Secure with galvanized deck screws
Step 14: Check Frame for Square and Level
- Measure diagonals of each fence section to ensure square
- Use a level to verify rails are horizontal
- Make adjustments as needed before installing pickets
- Ensure all connections are tight and secure
Installing Pickets
Step 15: Prepare Pickets
- Inspect all fence pickets for defects
- Sand any rough edges if desired
- Pre-treat cut ends with wood preservative (optional)
- Sort pickets by quality, saving best ones for most visible areas
Step 16: Create Dog Ear Pattern
- Mark each picket 1½ inches down from each top corner
- Draw diagonal lines from these marks to create the "dog ear" points
- Cut along marked lines with a circular saw or miter saw
- Sand cut edges smooth
- Use the first cut picket as a template for consistency
Step 17: Install First Picket
- Start at one end or corner post
- Position picket flush with outside edge of post
- Check that picket is plumb using a level
- Mark where picket crosses each rail
- Attach picket to rails with 1â…ť-inch galvanized deck screws
- Use two screws per rail connection
Step 18: Set Picket Spacing
- Determine desired gap between pickets (typically ½ to ¾ inch)
- Cut a spacer block to maintain consistent gaps
- Use spacer block between each picket as you install
- Alternatively, measure and mark consistent spacing
Step 19: Install Remaining Pickets
- Work systematically along the fence line
- Use spacer block to maintain consistent gaps
- Check every few pickets with a level to ensure they remain plumb
- Adjust spacing slightly over long runs to ensure last picket fits properly
- Pre-drill holes if wood begins to split
Step 20: Handle End Conditions
- At corners, you may need to rip (cut lengthwise) the last picket to fit
- Ensure corner pickets overlap properly for good appearance
- Trim pickets as needed to fit around obstacles
- Maintain consistent spacing even with custom cuts
Gate Installation (if applicable)
Step 21: Frame Gate Opening
- Install gate posts with extra concrete for stability
- Space gate posts to accommodate gate width plus hardware clearance
- Ensure gate posts are perfectly plumb and aligned
- Allow extra curing time for gate posts due to added stress
Step 22: Build Gate Frame
- Build gate frame using 2x4 pressure-treated lumber
- Use mortise and tenon joints or galvanized brackets for corners
- Add diagonal bracing to prevent sagging
- Make gate frame ½ inch smaller than opening to allow for hardware
Step 23: Install Gate Hardware
- Install heavy-duty hinges on gate post and gate frame
- Add a gate latch appropriate for your needs
- Test gate operation and adjust as needed
- Install gate stops to prevent over-swinging
Finishing Touches
Step 24: Trim and Clean Up
- Trim any protruding screws or rough edges
- Check all connections for tightness
- Clean up job site and dispose of waste materials properly
- Remove string lines and temporary stakes
Step 25: Apply Finish (Optional)
- Allow wood to dry for 4-6 weeks before staining or sealing
- Choose appropriate exterior wood stain or sealant
- Apply finish according to manufacturer's instructions
- Work in shade and avoid direct sunlight during application
Step 26: Final Inspection
- Walk the entire fence line checking for loose pickets or rails
- Verify all gates operate smoothly
- Check that fence meets local code requirements
- Make any necessary adjustments
Maintenance and Care
Regular Maintenance Tasks
- Inspect fence annually for loose or damaged components
- Retighten screws as needed
- Replace any damaged pickets promptly
- Clean fence surface before applying new finish
- Reapply stain or sealant every 2-3 years
Common Issues and Solutions
- Sagging gates: Add diagonal bracing or adjust hinges
- Loose pickets: Retighten screws or add additional fasteners
- Post movement: Check concrete footing and reset if necessary
- Weather damage: Replace damaged sections promptly to prevent spreading
Safety Reminders
- Always wear safety glasses when cutting or drilling
- Use hearing protection with power tools
- Check that ladders are stable before climbing
- Have a helper when handling long boards
- Be aware of overhead power lines when working with tall materials
- Keep first aid kit accessible during construction
Cost-Saving Tips
- Buy materials in bulk for better pricing
- Shop lumber yards for better quality than big box stores
- Consider buying slightly lower grade pickets and selecting the best ones for visible areas
- Rent specialized tools rather than buying for one-time use
- Plan project during off-season when lumber prices may be lower
Important Note: Property line disputes can be expensive and time-consuming. Always verify exact property boundaries and check with neighbors before beginning construction. When in doubt, hire a surveyor to mark property lines professionally.



Search Our Blog
Learn.
Build.
Repeat.
____
Do you have something specific you'd like to learn about? Perhaps you're curious about a particular product and its various applications, or maybe you're looking for DIY tips and tricks. We'd love to hear from you! Share with us any project or topic you wish you had more knowledge about, and our home improvement store blog page will create dedicated content to bring your ideas to life. Your input matters to us, and we're here to make your learning dreams come true. Send us a message, and let's embark on a journey of discovery together!



Search Our Blog

There's something deeply satisfying about marking your territory – and we're not talking about your dog's favorite fire hydrant. We're talking about building a beautiful, sturdy privacy fence that defines your space, keeps prying eyes out, and adds serious curb appeal to your home. And the best part? You can absolutely build it yourself.
Why Dog Ear Fencing is the Perfect DIY Project
The dog ear fence isn't just a clever name – those distinctive angled cuts at the top of each picket aren't just for looks. They're practical design elements that help water run off instead of pooling on flat surfaces, which means your fence will last longer and look better year after year.
But beyond the practical benefits, there's something undeniably appealing about the clean lines and classic American look of a well-built dog ear fence. It says "established neighborhood" and "property pride" without shouting it from the rooftops. Plus, it's one of the most straightforward fence styles to build, making it perfect for first-time fence builders.
The Sweet Spot of Home Improvement
Building your own fence hits that perfect sweet spot of home improvement projects – it's challenging enough to feel like a real accomplishment, but not so complex that you need years of carpentry experience. Most DIYers find fence building surprisingly methodical and satisfying. It's basically adult Legos, but with power tools and the reward of increased property value.
A professionally installed privacy fence can cost $20-40 per linear foot. Build it yourself, and you're looking at $8-15 per foot in materials. For a typical backyard fence (150 linear feet), that's potentially $2,000-4,000 in savings. That's not just pocket change – that's vacation money, kitchen upgrade money, or "start the next project" money.
More Than Just Property Lines
Sure, privacy is probably your main motivation, but a good fence delivers so much more. It creates defined outdoor spaces, provides a backdrop for landscaping, keeps kids and pets safe, reduces noise from busy streets, and can even help with wind control in exposed yards.
And let's be honest – there's something primal about building your own boundary. Every post you set, every rail you attach, every picket you hang is you literally staking your claim and creating something that will outlast you. Your fence will be standing strong long after you've moved on, providing privacy and property definition for the next family.
Ready to Take the Leap?
The beauty of fence building is that it's forgiving. Small imperfections blend into the overall look, and most "mistakes" can be easily corrected. The skills you'll learn – measuring, cutting, drilling, and basic carpentry – will serve you well in countless future projects.
You don't need to be a master carpenter to build a fence that looks professionally installed. You just need patience, attention to detail, and the willingness to follow a proven process step by step. Most DIY fence builders are amazed at how professional their finished product looks, especially when they step back and see that long, straight line of perfectly aligned pickets.
The hardest part isn't the building – it's making the decision to start. Your backyard is waiting for that defining touch that turns it from "yard" into "outdoor living space." Every neighborhood has that one house with the gorgeous fence that makes everyone else's property look a little unfinished by comparison.
Ready to be that house? Check out our complete step-by-step guide below that walks you through every detail of building a dog ear privacy fence, from marking property lines to applying the final finish. Your property lines are about to become property statements.
Complete DIY Guide: Building a Dog Ear Privacy Fence
Planning and Preparation Phase
Step 1: Check Property Lines and Local Codes
- Survey your property lines or hire a surveyor to mark exact boundaries
- Contact local building department to check fence height restrictions and setback requirements
- Verify if permits are required (usually not needed for fences under 6 feet)
- Check for any HOA restrictions or neighborhood covenants
- Confirm which side of the fence should face your neighbor (typically the "good side" faces out)
Step 2: Contact Utility Marking Service
- Call 811 (Dig Safe) to mark underground utilities
- Wait 2-3 business days before digging
- Mark utility locations with spray paint or flags
- Take photos of marked utilities for reference
Step 3: Plan Your Fence Layout
- Measure the total linear footage needed
- Mark fence line with stakes and string
- Identify any slopes, obstacles, or corners
- Plan gate locations if needed
- Account for property line setbacks (typically 2-6 inches from actual property line)
Step 4: Calculate Materials Needed
For every 8-foot section, you'll need:
- 1 pressure-treated fence post (4x4x8 feet)
- 2 pressure-treated horizontal rails (2x4x8 feet)
- 11-13 fence pickets (1x6x6 feet, depending on spacing)
- Concrete mix (1-2 bags per post)
- Galvanized deck screws (2½ inches for rails, 1â…ť inches for pickets)
- Post caps (optional but recommended)
Step 5: Gather Tools and Equipment
- Post hole digger or shovel
- Level (4-foot recommended)
- Drill/driver
- Circular saw or miter saw
- Measuring tape
- String line and stakes
- Wheelbarrow for mixing concrete
- Safety glasses and gloves
Setting Posts
Step 6: Mark Post Locations
- Start at one corner or end of fence line
- Mark post locations every 8 feet along the string line
- Use spray paint to mark exact spots on the ground
- Double-check measurements to ensure equal spacing
Step 7: Dig Post Holes
- Dig holes 24-30 inches deep (one-third the height of fence plus 6 inches)
- Make holes 8-10 inches wide
- Dig holes slightly wider at the bottom for stability
- Remove all loose soil and debris
- Add 4-6 inches of gravel to each hole for drainage
Step 8: Set Corner and End Posts First
- Place corner and end posts in holes
- Use a level to ensure posts are perfectly plumb (vertical)
- Mix concrete according to package directions
- Pour concrete around posts, leaving 2-3 inches below ground level
- Slope concrete away from post to shed water
- Allow corner posts to set for 24 hours before proceeding
Step 9: Set Line Posts
- Run a string line between set corner posts at the desired fence height
- Set remaining posts one at a time
- Use the string line to maintain consistent height
- Check each post for plumb with a level
- Set posts in concrete using same method as corner posts
- Allow all posts to cure for 24-48 hours
Step 10: Trim Posts to Final Height
- Mark all posts at the same height using a string line or water level
- Cut posts with a circular saw for a clean, level top
- Install post caps to protect wood from moisture (optional but recommended)
Installing Rails and Framework
Step 11: Mark Rail Positions
- Measure and mark the location for top rail (typically 6-8 inches from top of post)
- Mark bottom rail location (typically 8-10 inches from ground)
- Use a level to ensure marks are consistent across all posts
- Mark both sides of each post where rails will attach
Step 12: Cut and Install Top Rails
- Measure distance between posts for each section
- Cut 2x4 pressure-treated lumber to fit between posts
- Position top rail between posts at marked locations
- Attach rails to posts using 2½-inch galvanized deck screws
- Drive screws at slight downward angle to prevent splitting
- Use two screws per connection point
Step 13: Install Bottom Rails
- Follow same process as top rails
- Ensure bottom rail is level and consistent height from ground
- Check that rail doesn't touch the ground (leave 2-3 inch gap for drainage)
- Secure with galvanized deck screws
Step 14: Check Frame for Square and Level
- Measure diagonals of each fence section to ensure square
- Use a level to verify rails are horizontal
- Make adjustments as needed before installing pickets
- Ensure all connections are tight and secure
Installing Pickets
Step 15: Prepare Pickets
- Inspect all fence pickets for defects
- Sand any rough edges if desired
- Pre-treat cut ends with wood preservative (optional)
- Sort pickets by quality, saving best ones for most visible areas
Step 16: Create Dog Ear Pattern
- Mark each picket 1½ inches down from each top corner
- Draw diagonal lines from these marks to create the "dog ear" points
- Cut along marked lines with a circular saw or miter saw
- Sand cut edges smooth
- Use the first cut picket as a template for consistency
Step 17: Install First Picket
- Start at one end or corner post
- Position picket flush with outside edge of post
- Check that picket is plumb using a level
- Mark where picket crosses each rail
- Attach picket to rails with 1â…ť-inch galvanized deck screws
- Use two screws per rail connection
Step 18: Set Picket Spacing
- Determine desired gap between pickets (typically ½ to ¾ inch)
- Cut a spacer block to maintain consistent gaps
- Use spacer block between each picket as you install
- Alternatively, measure and mark consistent spacing
Step 19: Install Remaining Pickets
- Work systematically along the fence line
- Use spacer block to maintain consistent gaps
- Check every few pickets with a level to ensure they remain plumb
- Adjust spacing slightly over long runs to ensure last picket fits properly
- Pre-drill holes if wood begins to split
Step 20: Handle End Conditions
- At corners, you may need to rip (cut lengthwise) the last picket to fit
- Ensure corner pickets overlap properly for good appearance
- Trim pickets as needed to fit around obstacles
- Maintain consistent spacing even with custom cuts
Gate Installation (if applicable)
Step 21: Frame Gate Opening
- Install gate posts with extra concrete for stability
- Space gate posts to accommodate gate width plus hardware clearance
- Ensure gate posts are perfectly plumb and aligned
- Allow extra curing time for gate posts due to added stress
Step 22: Build Gate Frame
- Build gate frame using 2x4 pressure-treated lumber
- Use mortise and tenon joints or galvanized brackets for corners
- Add diagonal bracing to prevent sagging
- Make gate frame ½ inch smaller than opening to allow for hardware
Step 23: Install Gate Hardware
- Install heavy-duty hinges on gate post and gate frame
- Add a gate latch appropriate for your needs
- Test gate operation and adjust as needed
- Install gate stops to prevent over-swinging
Finishing Touches
Step 24: Trim and Clean Up
- Trim any protruding screws or rough edges
- Check all connections for tightness
- Clean up job site and dispose of waste materials properly
- Remove string lines and temporary stakes
Step 25: Apply Finish (Optional)
- Allow wood to dry for 4-6 weeks before staining or sealing
- Choose appropriate exterior wood stain or sealant
- Apply finish according to manufacturer's instructions
- Work in shade and avoid direct sunlight during application
Step 26: Final Inspection
- Walk the entire fence line checking for loose pickets or rails
- Verify all gates operate smoothly
- Check that fence meets local code requirements
- Make any necessary adjustments
Maintenance and Care
Regular Maintenance Tasks
- Inspect fence annually for loose or damaged components
- Retighten screws as needed
- Replace any damaged pickets promptly
- Clean fence surface before applying new finish
- Reapply stain or sealant every 2-3 years
Common Issues and Solutions
- Sagging gates: Add diagonal bracing or adjust hinges
- Loose pickets: Retighten screws or add additional fasteners
- Post movement: Check concrete footing and reset if necessary
- Weather damage: Replace damaged sections promptly to prevent spreading
Safety Reminders
- Always wear safety glasses when cutting or drilling
- Use hearing protection with power tools
- Check that ladders are stable before climbing
- Have a helper when handling long boards
- Be aware of overhead power lines when working with tall materials
- Keep first aid kit accessible during construction
Cost-Saving Tips
- Buy materials in bulk for better pricing
- Shop lumber yards for better quality than big box stores
- Consider buying slightly lower grade pickets and selecting the best ones for visible areas
- Rent specialized tools rather than buying for one-time use
- Plan project during off-season when lumber prices may be lower
Important Note: Property line disputes can be expensive and time-consuming. Always verify exact property boundaries and check with neighbors before beginning construction. When in doubt, hire a surveyor to mark property lines professionally.